Need an engine man!!! (headgaskets)

[Jackal]

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/aos/610862658.html

Please check my craigslist ad, and keep in mind that a Ford ASE engine mechanic or EXPERIENCED shop owning / working motor head will due. I had planned on doing this myself with minimal help from a dealership mechanic I found on there, but I discovered the job calls for all these tools: (what do these guys usually do?)

-Camshaft Position Aligners
-Camshaft Pulley Aligners
-Camshaft Holding Tool
-Crankshaft Seal Replacer
-Front Cover Seal Remover
-Crankshaft Seal Installer
-Crankshaft Damper Replacer
-Crankshaft Vibration Damper Remover
-Crankshaft Vibration Damper Installer
-Valve Stem Oil Seal Installer
-Valve Spring Compressor
-Valve Spring Compressor Spacer

I need an idea on cost as well. If working on it in my garage when time allows doesn't work, I can make arrangements to have it in a shop, I just don't have a whole shat ton of money left over after buying all of this stuff. Factory gaskets, longtube headers, custom tunes, etc. Thanks for any help!!! Sucks you can't work on your own stuff anymore without $1,000's worth of factory tools. :beatyoass:

[greasemonkey]

Wish you were closer!

[Dark-5.0]

I wish I could help you in person but I can give you as much help on here as I can. I will show you what you actually need and what you don't:

-Camshaft Position Aligners NO
-Camshaft Pulley Aligners NO
-Camshaft Holding Tool NO
-Crankshaft Seal Replacer Screwdriver with hammer since you're replacing it
-Front Cover Seal Remover Your hand? its just a rubber gasket
-Crankshaft Seal Installer Large round piece of aluminum would be nice with a softblow hammer. You just want it to go in straight, thats the biggest key.
-Crankshaft Damper Replacer Rent at a parts store
-Crankshaft Vibration Damper Remover Rent at a parts store
-Crankshaft Vibration Damper Installer In the same kit as the remover
-Valve Stem Oil Seal Installer NO
-Valve Spring Compressor NO
-Valve Spring Compressor Spacer NO

When you pull the heads, take the chains off the cam gears and don't touch a thing. Don't remove the gears or anything. Keep everything in their place. Take the heads down to nolands completely assembled. Let him know that this is how you pulled them off the head and you don't want to mess with setting the timing again. Those guys are awesome down there and they will go ahead and mark the cams in relation to the heads and you won't need all those cam tools to get your timing right again. Then just place the heads back on the motor and put the chains back on them.

You know how to get ahold of me if you've got anymore questions.

[Jackal]

Thanks man, I may just dive into it. It's gonna suck though.

How do I handle the cam tensioners?

What is the proper procedure for replacing the valve guide seals w/o the spring compressor / installer?

[Dark-5.0]

Nolands is going to do it for you. Its much easier since he'll already have them to resurface them. Just let him know that Jeremy that used to work at ProCharger told you that he'd take care of you.

[Jackal]

Yet another reason I want to start using local shops. You guys are the $#!^, thanks again. I'll get started tonight.

[Dark-5.0]

No problem. Glad I could help.

[Jackal]

Alright, I'm getting close to having the timing cover off, after fighting with the exhaust manifolds for days now. (Still have 1 stud that won't back out and I can't test fit my headers.)

Could you (or someone) please explain in greater detail the procedure for removing the timing chains, guides, & tensioners? I've been told that if you slacken or tighten the chains too quickly, it will trash the valves and / or pistons. I also don't see how you can get the heads off without bumping one of the cam gears. Setting the timing after I get the heads back won't be much fun either. I plan on replacing chains, guides, and tensioners, so marking the factory ones won't do me much good.

I know you can set the engine at "safe mode" when you have the heads off, but it's still really confusing.

[Dark-5.0]

First off, whoever is telling you about damaging the valves or pistons, stop listening to them. They are not educated enough to be giving tips. First off, pull off the timing cover. Once thats off you'll see the chains, tensionors, and guides. First off, use white out and mark the chain in relation to each cam gear and the crank gear. Doing one side at a time, remove the tensioners and guides. This will give you plenty of slack to work with. Next using your rachet and correct socket for the cam gear, hold the cam gear in place and remove the chain off the crank gear. Once you have the gear removed, you can slowly turn the ratchet to release the spring tension on the cam. Walah!

[Jackal]

...so letting the tension out on the cam gears won't allow any of the valves to come into contact with the pistons?

Since I'm replacing the chains, is there any point in marking anything, or should I count links and mark the new chains?

I'm sure there is nothing to this, but having never been balls deep in an overhead cam V8, I'm a little skittish. Thanks again. Can't wait to see that 5.4'd Stang.

[greasemonkey]

...so letting the tension out on the cam gears won't allow any of the valves to come into contact with the pistons?

Since I'm replacing the chains, is there any point in marking anything, or should I count links and mark the new chains?

I'm sure there is nothing to this, but having never been balls deep in an overhead cam V8, I'm a little skittish. Thanks again. Can't wait to see that 5.4'd Stang.

You can lay the chain out on a bench pulled together with a link turned flat on each end once you get it off, mark the new one the same as the old one. Mark the sprokets and chain. As far as the tension on the cam's go it would make it a litttle easier to pop off the followers. Now, i myself usualy turn the motor over till you find a spot where the tension is minimum or even all gone on the cams.(if you dont remove the followers) Another way i'v used is to remove a cam bearing cap and put a small piece of folded paper in it and reinstall it. It will hold the cam. Just dont over tighten it it just needs to be snug. Hope this helps. P.m. me if you need anything i can try to make this clearer if need be.

[Saleen Guru]

Be sure you put the engine into "safe" position so you won't smack the valves. I believe it's with the crank keyway in the down position but double check that. Or just look and see that all the valves are closed and you'll be fine...

[Jackal]

I'll try to find safe mode tonight and will let ya'll know how it goes. I noticed the timing cover sits on at least an inch of the oil pan...is it necessary to replace the oil pan gasket after reinstalling the timing cover or what?

I would just do it without asking, but that requires dropping the front axle or lifting the engine.

[greasemonkey]

I'll try to find safe mode tonight and will let ya'll know how it goes. I noticed the timing cover sits on at least an inch of the oil pan...is it necessary to replace the oil pan gasket after reinstalling the timing cover or what?

I would just do it without asking, but that requires dropping the front axle or lifting the engine.

You wont have to mess with teh oil pan gasket. It will stay on the pan and the cover will separate.

[Jackal]

I just posted this on the F150 forums:

Here's what I'm at:

http://www.f150online.com/galleries/pictureview.cfm?pnum=218161&anum=213

Ya'll got me this far, I hope you will help me see it through.

I got all the bolts out of the timing cover, but the **** thing won't budge. How do you "pry" it off of there? Just realized I still have to remove the 4 oil pan screws. DOAH!!!

I haven't drained the oil yet, so I'm hoping it doesn't come pouring out the front when I do get the cover off. I did check the oil and it wasn't quite to the cross-hatching on the **** stick. It's only been 2,000 since my last oil change, so it was getting bad. I usually go 4,000 between changes, and haven't made a habit of checking it since about 10,000 miles ago. Hope I haven't trashed the bottom end.

See the classic signs of 2001 4.6L Romeo PI heads there on the block? Nice huh? I hope the deck surface was protected by the headgaskets somewhat.

My plan for removing the timing components is to pull the plugs and put the engine in "safe mode". Then marking everything, removing the guides to get enough slack to pull the chains, and hoping I don't bump any of the gears while trying to get the heads off. How freely do these gear move when the chains are off anyhow? ;)

[Saleen Guru]

If you look at the cams they will have a flat spot on the shaft of the cam that you can put a open end wrench or an adjustable wrench and control the movement of the cam back and forth. If you cant reach that because of the cam cages...you might try a 3/8 drive extention and a big ratchet and put it in the end of the cam...it will have a square notch on the end (rear) of the cam shaft. The cams can jump (from valve spring pressure) if you dont use a wrench to hold the cam movement when your pulling the chains off...

keep on keepin on. It's how we all learned...by just doin it. :thumb_up:

[Jackal]

Thanks for the encouragement man. I feel like I just got the tip of it in...hahahaha.

If I get it in "safe mode", is there any chance of the valves hitting anything when I pull the chains off? I just don't see how all the cylinders can be out of the way at once. Any tips on where / what to mark?

[Neb50]

I think "safe mode" is where the keyway is straight up and when it is in this location, there is no chance of hitting a valve (at least with stock cams.)

[Jackal]

Thanks man, I have the write-up so I'll study that tonight.

Did you get all my PM's last weekend? :smilielol:

[Jackal]

Just to clarify in case someone else uses this..."safe mode" is 45 deg. counter-clockwise (in relation to the crank keyway) from where it is pictured. (Pictured is #1TDC)

http://www.modulardepot.com/images/med_timing-diagram.gif